Middle East

This Ramadan brings little cheer for the Palestinians of the West Bank and Gaza. After more than a year of confrontations, the Palestinians are feeling the strain of their many losses more in this month of fasting than ever before. Financially, the situation is close to collapse: According to the Palestinian Economic Council for Development and Reconstruction, overall losses incurred by the Palestinian economy in the one-year period between September 2000 and September 2001 totaled US$5.3 billion. In addition, Palestinian ministries dish out an approximate $80 million a year to families in crisis. This includes the monthly assistance to families of martyrs, detainees, and those injured in the Intifada.

This devastating cost is clearly reflected in the lives of everyday Palestinians. While Ramadan in previous years meant lavish tables—this year most Palestinian tables have a lot more empty space. “We don’t make meat dishes every single day this year,” says Um Ahmad, a mother of five from Ramallah. And true, Ahmad’s situation is enviable compared to those whose families will never again be complete. According to the Palestinian Red Crescent Society, 823 Palestinians have been killed by Israeli gunfire since Sept. 29, 2000.

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This year, the most pressing demand is getting to the dinner table on time before the voice of the muezzin calls out “Allahu Akbar” from the minaret, signaling the end of a long day of fasting. “We broke our fast at the checkpoint yesterday,” says May, a schoolteacher with three children who works in Ramallah but lives in a village on the other side of the Qalandiya checkpoint that splits Ramallah and Jerusalem. The 90-something additional checkpoints that Israel has erected over this past year of Intifada in the West Bank and Gaza are a constant irritant to almost every Palestinian in the occupied territories. For those who try to brave the checkpoint crossing in a vehicle, the wait is almost always long and grueling. “We ended up breaking our fast with a date,” says Suleiman, a Birzeit University student, of his trip back home. “When the muezzin called ‘Allahu Akbar,’ we were still in Qalandiya.”

As Muslims purge themselves of their sins through prayer and fasting, one venue sorely sought but hardly attainable is Al-Aqsa Mosque, in the heart of Jerusalem’s Old City. Third in importance only after the mosques of Mecca and Medina as the holiest place in Islam, Al-Aqsa has been the site of Palestinian Muslims’ most devout worship and bloodiest conflicts. It is said that one prayer in Al-Aqsa is worth 500 prayers and that during the “Night of Destiny,” or Laylat al-Qadar, the sky opens up above the holy grounds and worshippers may wish for their heart’s desire.

While it seems as if the roads to Al-Aqsa are swelling with people, their numbers are nothing compared to what they would be if Israeli restrictions on movement did not exist.

“Getting to Jerusalem has become only a dream for me,” says a 29-year-old resident of Al-Ram, who preferred not to give his name. “Now that it is Ramadan it is really sad and frustrating that I cannot reach Al-Aqsa.”

No more than 20,000 to 30,000 worshippers were able to reach the mosque compound on the first Friday of Ramadan, Al-Aqsa director Sheikh Mohammed Hussein told the Voice of Palestine. In normal days—i.e., without Israeli checkpoints—the numbers easily rose into the hundreds of thousands. One Old City resident recalls his childhood years when worshippers flooded into Al-Aqsa in the millions. “People were praying inside the mosque, on the grounds, outside the gates, and all along the streets leading to Al-Aqsa,” he says with nostalgia.

But those who can make it to Jerusalem come in busloads. Every Thursday afternoon and Friday morning, streams of excited visitors unload with backpacks, bags, and straw mats and make their way hurriedly into the grounds to secure a tiny corner of the courtyard. Most of these visitors do not come from other areas of the West Bank and certainly not from Gaza, which is locked away from the rest of the country by strict Israeli military orders and an oppressive airtight border crossing. These visitors are those traveling across the imaginary but all too ubiquitous Green Line separating Israel from the occupied territories. These Palestinian Muslims bear Israeli passports and are therefore allowed to move freely into Jerusalem. While their Palestinian brethren in the West Bank and Gaza are barred, it is this group of Muslims that is saving the economy of the Old City.

“If it weren’t for the ‘Israeli-Arabs,’ we would not be able to keep our heads above water,” says Tayseer, who owns a small shop just meters from Al-Aqsa’s main gate. He and his brother have spread their wares on an ice-cream refrigerator, the contents of which have been replaced with frozen foods. Different types of cheeses, breads, and cakes are displayed for passersby, and many of those visiting from inside the Green Line are enticed by the relatively cheaper prices of Jerusalem merchandise. “We are doing all right,” he concludes. “Not like the people in the West Bank and Gaza. They have really been hit hard,” Tayseer says sympathetically.